The route along the high-altitude lake Son Kul and Kel Su


Another interesting route I want to talk about is: Bishkek – Lake Son-Kul – Lake Kel-Suu – Bishkek.

This route is quite rugged. The lakes Son-Kul and Kel-Suu are located in the mountains at an altitude of over 3000 m above sea level; for most of the year, it is winter there. Therefore, it’s comfortable to travel along this route from mid-June to mid-September.

I also want to note that a reliable all-terrain vehicle is necessary for such a trip; you won’t be able to get through with anything else.
On the first day, you need to leave Bishkek in the morning and head towards the town of Kochkor. Along the way, I recommend making a stop to visit the Konorchik canyons, which I mentioned earlier. This won't take much time, but you'll get to see an interesting location, which is important, as you won't see anything like it again; the mountains ahead will be more rugged and wild.
Then you can have lunch at the Fut Zone café, which will be in the Boom Gorge and is on your way. In the evening, you will reach the town of Kochkor. There are many guesthouses there, and contact details can be found online; just make sure to book in advance.

On the second day, I recommend that you don't leave Kochkor but instead visit Lake Kel-Ukök. It is located about 20 km southeast of Kochkor, and any local person will be able to guide you. You won't be able to drive all the way to the lake; you'll have to walk for about an hour in one direction. The ascent follows an old path and is not difficult. I recommend taking this walk, as you will need acclimatization to the high altitude, and this stroll will be beneficial for that purpose. I want to remind you that the next locations will be at an altitude of over 3000 m, and it can be difficult for someone from the plains to be there.

On the third day of the trip, you will ascend to Lake Son-Kul. From Kochkor to Son-Kul is about 80 km, but the road is mostly unpaved, and the ascent to the pass will take approximately 3 hours.
At Lake Son-Kul, there are many yurt camps. Booking them can be problematic since there is no mobile coverage; however, you can ask where to stay at Lake Son-Kul at your guesthouse in Kochkor, as they all have connections with their fellow tribesmen in the mountains, and various transportation goes there every day. Generally, they will advise you on the best course of action. You can confidently head there, and you will always find a place to spend the night; just be sure not to arrive too late—it's better to reach the lake by 4 PM.

I also want to tell you about the climate in Kyrgyzstan. Arriving in Bishkek in the summer, you will encounter temperatures of 35-40 degrees Celsius, but as soon as you ascend into the mountains, it gets cooler, and at altitudes of 3000 m, it can even be cold and sometimes snow may fall. Therefore, make sure to take warm clothes, a jacket, a hat, thermal underwear, and warm socks—these are essential items for this route.

What can you do at Son Kul? You can walk around the lake, ride horses, and many yurt camps organize various national performances for tourists. But the main advantage of this place is the lack of communication and complete seclusion from the world and civilization. It’s up to you how much time you spend in this place, but I think more than two days doesn’t make much sense.
And again, it's time to hit the road, heading towards Lake Kel Su. If someone tells you that it’s normal to drive from Son Kul to Kel Su in one day, don’t believe them. The distance may not seem large—280 km—but these are mountain roads with winding paths, and most importantly, there are incredibly beautiful views that require stops for walking, taking photos, and enjoying nature. I recommend that on this day you drive to the city of Naryn, about 130 km away, and spend the night there, as there are good hotels where you can rest from the nomadic life in yurts, especially since you will be sleeping in a yurt again at Kel Su. In Naryn, there is a hotel called Khan Tengri, and I recommend booking it, which can be done through Booking.com. Also, along the way from Son Kul to Naryn, you will see the very beautiful 33 Parrots Pass, a waterfall, and the Teshik Canyon. Ask the locals in advance how to find these locations.

I also want to note that it’s better to have dinner in Naryn outside of the Khan Tengri hotel restaurant, as they take a long time to prepare food and the restaurant is often busy with large groups of tourists. Ask at the reception where you can find good food in Naryn, and they will suggest a couple of places.
A new day of travel has arrived, and it’s time to set off for Lake Kel Su, which is about 150 km away. The journey will take at least 5 hours. Besides stopping at beautiful locations, you will have to go through border control and present a border pass, which you must obtain 40 days before your arrival (there are many agencies that can help with this for a small fee). I should also mention that Naryn is the last place with decent shops and gas stations, so I recommend stocking up on fuel and supplies for the coming days, as there will be a few villages ahead and then only wild mountains. I also recommend booking yurts at Kel Su in advance, as there are many tourists and few yurts available. You can find contact information for the Jyrgal yurt camp online; they have the most reasonable staff. Additionally, there is no communication in the mountains, and the camp owner responds to inquiries only when the connection is available, usually within two days.

So by evening, you will reach the Jyrgal yurt camp. I want to point out that all yurt camps are located 7 km from Lake Kel Su. There is nothing closer. Therefore, the next morning, you will have to walk to the lake.
It’s better not to drive your car to the lake because the road to the lake goes through Sazs—high-altitude marshes—which may look like just grass, but underneath is a swamp that can pull your car in, leaving you stuck for a long time. You can walk through the Sazs without sinking, but a car will get bogged down. However, there is a solution: you can hire horses to reach the lake, and locals also transport people in their UAZ vehicles, driving right through the river and avoiding the mountain marshes. If you don’t want to walk, make sure to book horses or a UAZ in advance; you can do this through the owner of the Jyrgal yurt camp.

Today is the sixth day of your journey, and you will spend it at the most beautiful mountain lake in the Tien Shan. The lake is 14 km long and quite narrow, so to see it in its entirety, it’s better to hire a boat. There are several boats right on the shore, and locals take tourists out on them across the lake. Also, near the dam on the right side, there is a small cave where you can go and walk under the stone arches. If you climb the rocks at the beginning of the lake, you will get a great view and take stunning photographs.

You can stay in this place for a couple of days, or you can leave for the city of Naryn after lunch on the same day; the choice is yours. However, I recommend spending the night in the city of Naryn on your way back, as you have another interesting location ahead that will require a full day to explore.
The next location I want to tell you about is the canyon of the Kichi Naryn River. In the city of Naryn, you need to drive along the right bank of the Naryn River upstream. This road will take you to the village of Tash Bashat; in this village, turn left, and there will be a bridge over the Naryn River. The road then leads into the canyon of the Chichi Naryn River. The canyon stretches for about 30 km, with very beautiful mountains, a winding mountain road, forested cliffs, and a rushing mountain river in the narrow canyon. At the end of the canyon, you need to turn left, and the road will lead you back to the town of Kochkor, where you have already been. It’s better to spend the night here, as this journey will take the entire daylight hours. I highly recommend researching this route in detail in advance and preferably plotting it on a GPS, as the areas are desolate, and sometimes there is no one to ask for directions.

You can choose your next route. You can either head straight to Bishkek or take a detour to the southern shore of Issyk-Kul to see the Fairy Tale Canyon and swim in the lake. I have already written about leisure activities in Bishkek, so it’s up to you to decide where to go next.
I hope my recommendations will be helpful for you in planning your journey. If you have any questions, feel free to message me on WhatsApp at +996553131532, and I will share useful information with you.